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All during our drive, we encountered many herds of Impala, Grant’s Gazelles and Thompson’s Gazelles.
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Dik-dik, the smallest of the antelope were also plentiful. Dik-diks are about the size of large rabbits. Mature ones mate for life and are always found in pairs. If one dies or is killed, the other will die soon afterwards.
Our first stop was at the Oldupai (aka Olduvai)Gorge where the Leakey Family found evidence of early humans known as "Nutcracker Man". The museum at the Gorge is fascinating. They have plaster casts of "Nutcracker Man’s" footprints found there as well as fossilized bones of the prehistoric ancestors of today's cape buffalo, giraffes etc., that were his contemporaries. They describe what life may have been like when he lived accompanied by artists' renderings of Nutcracker Man's life and times.
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After millions of years of changes since Nutcracker Man roamed here, the terrain and climate are today remarkably similar to what probably existed when those footprints were made. Archaeologists are still working in the Gorge. We could see them from the bluff where the museum is located.
As we entered the Serengeti proper, we were struck by large outcroppings of rocks covered with trees jutting up from the arid from the plains. These are called Kopjes (pronounced copies). Water collects around these Kopjes attracting thirsty animals. We noticed a pair of lions resting near one of the first Kopjes we passed. No doubt they were waiting for their dinner to come along.
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We stopped at Lion’s Gate Kopje to eat our picnic lunch and climbed to the top for these magnificent views.
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We continued across the vast expanse of the Serengeti Plain the rest of the afternoon. There are no fences so the great herds are often in the roads. Occasionally, we would glimpse a pride of lions or a watchful Topi.
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We arrived at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge in the late afternoon. The staff welcomed us with hot moist wash cloths to clear away the dust of the road before checking in.
The Lodge is perched high on a hillside with more glorious views of the Serengeti Plains.
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If you look closely at the second view, you can spot the herd of elephants moving through the trees below the lodge.
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We settled in quickly exploring our new surroundings. Every room and public room has floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Plains.
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We roamed the Serengeti for the next two days.
We watched three Cheetahs as they stalked a herd of gazelle. Two were comfortably resting while the third kept vigil.
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There was a herd of Thompson's Gazelle moving along the other side of a small stream in the distance. The three Cheetahs were off on a hunt!
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They crept along the stream hidden by tall grasses separating them from the herd, then leapt across the stream landing silently on the opposing bank. Briefly, they disappeared into the tall grasses. We didn’t see them emerge, but suddenly the entire herd began to stampede away from the stream as if controlled by a single mind. The Cheetahs were unsuccessful this time, but there would be other days.
We found a huge but widely scattered herd of Zebras filing up to a watering hole. There was lots of commotion at the waters’ edge where some drank, others sparred and some chased each other kicking and bucking their way through the confusing maze of stripes. It was like a Turkish Bazaar for animals.
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Another lake near our lodge was home to a great flock of flamingoes. Think "Out of Africa" this time. The entire shore was pink with these magnificent birds feeding in the shallows. We were alone at this lake, so our driver got out of the Land Rover and waved his arms sending the birds skyward. Like a giant pink blanket they billowed up into the air, then settled back on the lake several yards farther down along the shore.
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A highlight of the Serengeti was the day we came across a pride of lions lying by the side of the road.
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Their bellies were swollen and some were actually on their backs with their legs splayed toward the sky. They had gorged themselves recently and were sleeping off the meal.
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Across the road we noticed some vultures and a jackal nervously waiting. Sticking up above the tall grass, we could see the ribs of the animal the pride had brought down earlier that morning. The cubs were heading in that direction and we followed them.
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A few vultures picked at and squabbled over scraps of viscera and bones that were scattered around the area because the decimated carcass was still surrounded by lions.
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When we got close enough to see the animal’s horns, we could see it was an eland, the largest of the antelopes.
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We also noted that there were quite a few more lions lying in the tall grasses on this side of the road.
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We counted 22 in all including the cubs that were still occasionally gnawing on the dead beast’s ribs.
The Serengeti is a place of great contrasts. The evidence of the savage Lion Kill juxtaposed to the nurturing mother Lion and her cubs.
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Now we began the Wing Portion of our Safari where we flew between Game Parks and Reserves. My previous 10 day driving experience strongly advised this mode of travel at this point. The airport near the Serengeti Seronera Lodge is nothing more than a strip of tarmac on the Serengeti Plain. A windsock marked one end of the runway and a small wooden kiosk marked the other. A cinderblock squatty potty was the only other structure nearby. Before landing, the plane made a sweep over the runway to clear the area of animals that may wander onto the tarmac. He circled once then landed.
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We flew from the Serengeti to Arusha then drove into Kenya and the Amboseli Game Reserve at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. This was the smallest of the small planes we flew between Reserves. It held only a dozen passengers. In fact, one lucky passenger sat in the co-pilot’s seat.
We had no tickets for this flight. Actually, we never got tickets for any of our Intra-African flights. The pilot had a passenger list with him. That was the case throughout. Koisinge handled our clearance for this flight as his last official act as our guide. From here on we flew these small planes between Game Reserves and Nairobi and learned in due time that these passenger lists had only first names on them!
We were informed before leaving the States that baggage weight must not exceed 33 lbs. on these small planes. But the only place they had a scale was in Nairobi. We saw several bags that exceeded the weight limit, but they put the baggage through anyway with only a shrug of their shoulders.
My advice is not to pack much anyway. Take advantage of the excellent, quick and inexpensive laundry service at the lodges or camps. You will get plenty dusty on your drives everyday and will appreciate the clean clothes, plus you will have more room in your bags for batiks and other souvenirs from your adventure. If you must pack for more than four days (no matter how long a Safari you booked), pack T-shirts you can use for Barter after you wear them. Travel Light=Travel Smart!
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